Archive for the ‘Frontpage Article’ Category

When to Fertilize Hay Fields in Georgia

Thursday, March 5th, 2026

Spring pasture with hay, it's a good time to fertilize your hay fields in marchKnowing exactly when and how to fertilize hay fields in Georgia is the key to unlocking maximum yield and superior quality forage. As the last hints of winter fade and the Georgia landscape begins to stir, March signals a critical turning point for hay farmers. The warming soil and longer days mean it’s time to wake up your dormant fields and set the stage for a bountiful harvest season. One of the most important tasks on this March checklist is fertilization. J & J Farms can provide expert advice and high-quality hay for you.

Our guide will walk you through the essentials of spring hay fertilization. We’ll cover the importance of timing, the necessity of soil testing, how to choose the right nutrients, and the direct impact these steps have on your hay production. Proper preparation now will pay dividends all season long.

Why March is a Crucial Month for Hay Field Care

Timing is everything in farming. For warm-season grasses like Bermuda grass and Bahia grass, which are the backbone of Georgia hay production, early spring is the prime time for care. Fertilizing too early, when the ground is still cold, means the grass isn’t ready to use the nutrients, leading to wasted money and potential environmental runoff. Fertilizing too late can miss the critical initial growth phase, resulting in a weaker first cutting.

March represents the sweet spot. As soil temperatures consistently rise to around 60-65°F, these grasses begin to break dormancy and “green up.” This is the signal that the root systems are becoming active and are ready to absorb the nutrients you provide. Applying fertilizer during this window gives your fields the fuel they need for vigorous spring growth, ensuring a strong start to the hay season.

Step One: Don’t Guess, Soil Test

Before you purchase a single bag of fertilizer, the first and most critical step is to conduct a soil test. Fertilizing without a soil test is like taking medication without a diagnosis—you might be doing more harm than good. Georgia’s soils can vary significantly in pH and nutrient levels, and a test provides a precise roadmap for what your specific field needs. Our flagship store, Cherokee Feed, offers free hay & forage testing services.

A soil test reveals two vital pieces of information:

  1. Soil pH: This measures the acidity or alkalinity of your soil. Most hay grasses in Georgia thrive in a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5. If your soil is too acidic (a common issue in the state), the grass cannot effectively absorb nutrients, no matter how much fertilizer you apply. A soil test will tell you if you need to apply lime to raise the pH, a process that should ideally be done several months before fertilization for the best results.
  2. Nutrient Levels: The test will show the current levels of essential macronutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). It will also provide recommendations for how much of each nutrient to apply to achieve optimal growth for your specific type of hay.

You can get soil testing kits and analysis from your local University of Georgia (UGA) Extension office. Taking this simple step can save you hundreds of dollars in unnecessary fertilizer and dramatically improve your hay yield.

Choosing the Right Fertilizer for Georgia Fields

Once you have your soil test results, you can confidently select the right fertilizer blend. The three numbers on a fertilizer bag (e.g., 17-17-17 or 34-0-0) represent the percentage of N-P-K. Your soil test will guide you to the correct ratio for your fields.

  • Nitrogen (N): This is the primary driver of vegetative growth and gives hay its deep green color. It is the nutrient most responsible for increasing yield. A spring application gives the grass the energy it needs for its initial growth spurt.
  • Phosphorus (P): Crucial for strong root development and energy transfer within the plant. Healthy roots are essential for nutrient uptake and drought tolerance later in the season.
  • Potassium (K): Often called the “health” nutrient, potassium helps regulate the plant’s internal processes, improves disease resistance, and strengthens cell walls. It is vital for overall plant vigor and resilience. Forage grasses remove large amounts of potassium from the soil with each cutting, so replenishing it is essential for long-term field health.

For established warm-season grasses like Bermuda, a common spring hay fertilization strategy involves applying a complete fertilizer (containing N, P, and K) after green-up, based on your soil test. This initial application sets the foundation for the entire growing season.

Application Timing and Methods

For your March hay field care, wait until the grass has shown consistent signs of greening up. Applying fertilizer to a fully dormant field is inefficient.

  • Wait for Green-Up: Look for about 50-75% green-up across the field. This indicates the plant is actively growing and ready for nutrients.
  • Consider the Weather: The ideal time to apply fertilizer is just before a light rain. The rain will help move the nutrients into the soil and down to the root zone. Avoid fertilizing before a heavy downpour, as this can wash the fertilizer away.
  • Weed Control: Early spring is also the time to manage weeds. Many farmers apply both fertilizer and pre-emergent or post-emergent herbicides. Be sure to read the labels carefully to ensure the products are compatible and appropriate for your type of hay. Some herbicides have grazing or harvesting restrictions that you must follow.

The Payoff: Higher Yield and Better Quality

Properly fertilizing hay fields in Georgia does more than just make the grass grow. It directly translates to a more profitable and sustainable operation.

  • Increased Yield: A well-fed field produces more tons of hay per acre. By providing the necessary nutrients in March, you maximize the potential of your first and most important cutting of the year.
  • Higher Nutritional Value: Nutrient-rich soil leads to nutrient-rich forage. Properly fertilized hay has higher protein content and is more palatable to livestock, which is crucial for animal health and performance.
  • Better Field Longevity: Consistently applying the right nutrients based on soil tests maintains the health and productivity of your hay stand for years. It prevents the soil from becoming depleted, which can lead to thinning grass, weed infestation, and declining yields.

Prepare for a Productive Season

March is the month of action. Don’t let this critical window pass you by. Take the time now to get your soil tested, create a fertilization plan, and give your fields the attention they deserve. These Georgia hay farming tips will help you lay the groundwork for a successful and productive hay season.

Hay Storage Solutions for Wet Weather

Sunday, February 15th, 2026

Round bales of hay, some are covered by a tarp to protect them from wet weather.If you live in Georgia, you know the weather can be unpredictable, that’s why we’re here to provide Hay Storage Solutions for Wet Weather. One minute it’s sunny, and the next, a torrential downpour soaks everything in sight. For farmers and livestock owners, this humidity and frequent rainfall pose a massive challenge: keeping hay dry. Hay is a significant financial investment, and losing it to moisture damage, mold, or rot is not just frustrating—it’s costly.

Storing hay in the Peach State requires more than just tossing a tarp over a stack. The high humidity levels here mean that moisture attacks from both the sky above and the ground below. To protect your forage, you need a strategic plan. Before we go any further, we would like to let you know that we sell high-quality hay here in North Georgia. With that said…

In this guide, we will explore effective hay storage solutions for wet weather in Georgia. We’ll cover how to combat humidity, choose the right structures, and use proper covering techniques to ensure your bales stay fresh, nutritious, and safe for your animals.

The Battle Against Moisture: Why It Matters

Moisture is the enemy of quality hay. When hay gets wet or absorbs too much humidity, it becomes a breeding ground for mold and bacteria. This spoilage reduces the nutritional value of the forage and, more dangerously, can produce mycotoxins that are harmful to horses, cattle, and goats.

In Georgia, the threat is twofold. First, we have direct rainfall. Second, we have “wicking,” where moisture from the damp ground seeps up into the bottom bales. Without proper intervention, you can easily lose the bottom 20% of your stack to rot. Understanding these risks is the first step in preventing hay mold and preserving your supply.

Structural Solutions: The Gold Standard

The most effective way to handle hay storage in wet weather is a permanent structure. While this requires an upfront investment, the money saved in preserved hay often pays for the building over time.

Pole Barns and Hay Sheds

A dedicated pole barn or hay shed is the ideal solution. These structures typically feature a solid roof and open sides.

  • Roof Integrity: Ensure the roof has a sufficient overhang. In Georgia’s heavy storms, rain rarely falls straight down; it blows sideways. An overhang of at least 2-3 feet helps keep the outer bales dry.
  • Site Selection: Build your shed on high ground. You want water to drain away from the structure, not pool around it. If your barn is in a low spot, you are fighting a losing battle against groundwater.

Flooring Matters

Putting hay directly on a dirt floor, even inside a barn, is a recipe for disaster in humid climates.

  • Concrete: A concrete pad with a vapor barrier underneath is excellent for stopping ground moisture.
  • Gravel: A thick layer of crushed rock or gravel (6-8 inches deep) creates a break between the soil and the hay, allowing for drainage.
  • Pallets: Regardless of the floor type, stacking hay on wooden pallets is one of the best Georgia hay storage tips. This creates an air gap under the stack, stopping wicking and allowing air to circulate beneath the bales.

Temporary and Outdoor Storage: Doing It Right

Not everyone has a dedicated hay barn. If you must store hay outdoors, you have to be meticulous to survive Georgia’s wet seasons.

The Pyramid Stack vs. The Mushroom Stack

How you stack your bales changes how water sheds off them.

  • Pyramid Stack: This is common but risky outdoors. If the tarp leaks, water runs down through the entire stack.
  • Mushroom Stack: This involves stacking the bottom row on its side (strings off the ground) and placing the top row flat. This can help shed water better if you are using round bales, but it requires careful balancing.
  • Avoid Flat Tops: Never stack hay with a flat top outdoors. Water will pool, soak through the tarp, and ruin the hay. Always create a peak so water runs off.

Tarping Techniques

Using a tarp seems simple, but many people get it wrong.

  • Quality Counts: Cheap blue tarps often degrade quickly in the sun and tear easily. Invest in heavy-duty, UV-resistant hay tarps.
  • Secure It Tightly: A flapping tarp pumps moisture-laden air into the stack. Use hay anchors, spiral pins, or heavy weights (like old tires) to keep the tarp snug.
  • Leave the Sides Open: This is crucial for storing hay in humidity. While you want to protect the top from rain, covering the sides completely traps condensation inside. Leave a gap at the bottom or leave the sides open to allow the stack to “breathe.”

Controlling Ventilation and Airflow

Preventing hay mold isn’t just about keeping rain out; it’s about letting moisture escape. Hay goes through a “sweat” period after baling where it releases moisture and heat. If you seal it up too tight, you create an oven that invites mold and even risks spontaneous combustion.

Orientation

Align your hay rows north-to-south if possible. This allows the sun to hit both sides of the stack throughout the day, helping to burn off morning dew and keep the outer layers dry.

Spacing

Don’t pack your barn to the rafters. Leave at least 1-2 feet of space between the hay and the barn walls, and ensure there is gap between the top of the stack and the roof. This allows hot, moist air to rise and escape. If you are stacking round bales outdoors, leave 6-12 inches between rows so they don’t trap water between them where they touch.

Regular Inspections

Even with the best setup, vigilance is key. Make it a habit to check your hay regularly, especially after a series of heavy Georgia storms.

  • Smell: Stick your nose into the stack. A musty odor is the first sign of trouble.
  • Touch: Slide your hand between bales. If they feel warm or damp, you need to break the stack down and let it air out immediately to prevent fire risk and further spoilage.

Protect Your Investment

Hay is the fuel that keeps your farm running. By implementing these hay storage solutions for wet weather, you can drastically reduce waste and ensure your animals have high-quality feed year-round. Whether you build a new barn, upgrade your tarping system, or simply start using pallets, every small improvement helps in the fight against Georgia’s humidity.

Don’t wait for the next storm to think about your hay. Evaluate your storage situation today, make the necessary changes, and rest easy knowing your winter supply is safe and dry.

Best Hay for Horses in Winter in Georgia

Thursday, February 5th, 2026

Truck full of winter hay available at J & J Hay Farm's feed store called Cherokee Feed.Here at J & J Hay Farms, we know all about the Best Hay for Horses in Winter in Georgia. Winter in Georgia shifts the landscape for horse owners. Green pastures fade, and the reliance on quality hay becomes absolute. As temperatures drop, your horse’s nutritional needs change, and providing the right forage is crucial for their health and warmth. Choosing the best hay for horses in winter isn’t just about filling a hay net; it’s about providing the essential fuel they need to thrive during the colder months.

This guide will explore the ideal types of hay for Georgia’s winter, discuss the specific dietary requirements of horses in cold weather, and offer practical advice on selecting and storing your supply. Understanding these key elements will help you keep your equine partner happy, healthy, and warm until spring returns.

Why Winter Changes Your Horse’s Hay Needs

A horse’s digestive system is a marvel of nature, acting as an internal furnace. The process of fermenting fiber in the hindgut generates a significant amount of heat, which helps them maintain their core body temperature in the cold. This is why forage is far more effective at keeping a horse warm than concentrates like grain.

During winter, horses burn more calories simply to stay warm. This increased energy demand means they need more hay. A general guideline is that for every 10-degree drop below their critical temperature (around 45°F for a horse with a healthy winter coat), their energy needs can increase by about 15-20%. This makes free-choice access to quality hay the gold standard for winter feeding.

Top Hay Choices for Georgia Winters

While many types of hay can work, some are better suited for the increased energy demands of winter. Here’s a look at the most common and nutritious hay for horses available in Georgia.

Bermuda Grass Hay

Bermuda grass is the most prevalent hay in Georgia and serves as an excellent foundation for a winter diet. It is a warm-season grass hay that, when harvested correctly, provides good levels of fiber and moderate protein.

  • Benefits: It’s widely available and generally more affordable than other varieties. Its fiber content is perfect for hindgut fermentation, which helps keep horses warm.
  • Considerations: The nutritional quality of Bermuda hay can vary greatly depending on when it was cut and how it was cured. For winter, look for a “first cutting” that is leafy and green, as it will have a higher nutrient density compared to later, coarser cuttings.

Timothy Hay

Timothy is a cool-season grass hay often favored for its balanced nutritional profile. While not as common in South Georgia, it’s a popular choice in the northern parts of the state and is widely available from suppliers who source it from other regions.

  • Benefits: Timothy hay is known for being highly palatable and lower in protein and calcium than legume hays like Alfalfa. This makes it a safe and suitable choice for the average horse in light to moderate work. It’s also a good option for horses with certain metabolic conditions.
  • Considerations: Timothy can be more expensive than Bermuda hay in Georgia due to its lower local supply. Ensure you are buying from a reputable source like J & J Hay Farms in North Georgia to guarantee quality.

Alfalfa Hay

Often called the “queen of forages,” Alfalfa is a legume hay, not a grass hay. This means it is significantly higher in protein, calories, and calcium.

  • Benefits: The high calorie content makes Alfalfa an excellent supplement for hard keepers, senior horses, or performance horses with elevated energy needs in the winter. A small amount added to a grass hay meal can provide a powerful nutritional boost.
  • Considerations: Feeding Alfalfa free-choice is generally not recommended for the average horse, as the excess protein and calcium can lead to weight gain or put a strain on their kidneys over time. It is best used strategically as a supplement to a primary grass hay diet. Always introduce Alfalfa slowly to avoid digestive upset.

How to Evaluate Hay Quality in Winter

Just because hay is available doesn’t mean it’s good. Poor-quality hay lacks nutrients and can pose health risks. Here’s what to look for:

  • Visual Inspection: Good hay should have a pleasant, sweet smell. Avoid anything that smells musty, sour, or moldy. Visually, look for a greenish or pale gold color. Brown, dark, or overly sun-bleached hay has likely lost its nutritional value.
  • Feel and Texture: The hay should be pliable and soft. Brittle or overly stiff hay may be old and less palatable. Break open a bale to check the inside—this is where mold and dust often hide.
  • The Mold Test: Never feed moldy hay. The dust from mold spores can cause severe respiratory issues like heaves (Recurrent Airway Obstruction), and some molds can lead to colic or other digestive crises. If you see white, grey, or black dust, or the bale feels warm to the touch, do not use it.

Winter Horse Feeding Tips and Hay Storage

Once you’ve sourced your nutritious hay for horses, proper storage and feeding practices are essential.

  • Elevate Your Supply: Never store hay directly on the ground. Use pallets or a thick layer of gravel to create a barrier that prevents ground moisture from wicking up into the bales and causing mold.
  • Provide Shelter: The best storage is in a dry, well-ventilated barn. If you must store hay outside, use a high-quality tarp to cover the top of the stack, ensuring it is secured against wind. Leave the sides partially open to allow for airflow, which prevents condensation buildup.
  • Ensure Constant Access to Water: A horse cannot properly digest hay without adequate water intake. In winter, this means checking water troughs and buckets at least twice a day to break and remove ice. A dehydrated horse is at a higher risk for impaction colic. Heated buckets or tank de-icers are a worthwhile investment.
  • Slow Down Consumption: For horses that eat quickly or need their weight managed, a slow-feeder hay net is an excellent tool. It mimics natural grazing behavior, keeps hay off the ground, and reduces waste.

Sourcing Your Winter Hay Supply

The best Georgia winter horse hay comes from a trusted source. Building a relationship with a local hay producer allows you to understand their farming practices and secure a consistent supply year after year. Start looking for your winter hay in the late summer or early fall when supplies are plentiful and quality is at its peak.

Plan ahead, know what to look for, and you can ensure your horse has the high-quality forage needed to stay healthy and warm all winter long.

When is Hay Season in Georgia?

Thursday, January 15th, 2026

A square bale of Canadian Timothy Hay is pictured, available at our farms in Georgia.If you’re a farmer, a horse owner, or simply curious about local farming, you’ve likely asked, “When is hay season in Georgia?” The answer isn’t a single date on a calendar. Instead, it’s a dynamic period influenced by grass type, weather, and specific agricultural goals. Understanding the rhythm of the seasons is crucial for anyone involved with livestock or agriculture in the Peach State.

This guide will walk you through the typical hay harvesting times in Georgia. We’ll explore the primary types of hay grown, the factors that shape their production, and what to expect throughout the year. By the end, you’ll have a clear picture of Georgia’s hay production cycle. If you’re wondering, where can I find good hay in Georgia? Look no further than J & J Hay Farms!

Now, onto the guide:

Understanding Georgia’s Hay Production Cycle

Georgia’s climate allows for multiple hay cuttings throughout the year, making it a key state for forage production. The “hay season” generally kicks off in late spring and can extend well into the fall, depending on the type of forage and the weather conditions.

The process involves planting, growing, cutting, drying (or curing), and baling. Each step is critical for producing high-quality, nutritious hay. For many Georgia hay farmers, the goal is to get as many cuttings as possible without depleting the soil or compromising the health of the pasture.

Harvesting Times for Common Georgia Hay Varieties

The best time to grow hay in Georgia depends heavily on the variety. Different grasses have unique growing seasons and optimal cutting schedules. Here are the most common types you’ll find and their typical harvesting windows.

Bermuda Grass Hay

Bermuda grass is the undisputed king of hay in Georgia. It’s a warm-season perennial that thrives in the state’s hot, humid summers. It is known for its durability, high yield, and good nutritional content, making it a favorite for horses and cattle.

  • Growing Season: Bermuda grass begins to grow actively once soil temperatures consistently stay above 65°F, usually in April or May.
  • Harvesting Times: The first cutting typically occurs in late May or early June. Subsequent cuttings can happen every 4 to 6 weeks throughout the summer. It’s common for farmers to get 3 to 5 cuttings of Bermuda hay, with the last one happening in late September or even early October before the first frost.

Fescue Hay

Tall Fescue is a cool-season grass, meaning it does most of its growing during the cooler parts of the year. While often used for grazing, it is also harvested for hay, particularly in the northern regions of Georgia.

  • Growing Season: Fescue flourishes in the spring and fall. It often goes dormant or slows its growth during the peak heat of summer.
  • Harvesting Times: The primary cutting for Fescue hay happens in the spring, typically from late April to early May. Farmers aim to cut it before it fully matures and produces a seed head to maximize its nutritional value. A second, smaller cutting might be possible in the fall if weather conditions are favorable.

Alfalfa Hay

Alfalfa is a high-protein legume often called the “queen of forages.” It requires well-drained, fertile soil and careful management. While not as widespread as Bermuda grass, it is a valuable crop for Georgia farmers, especially those supplying dairy farms or high-performance horse owners.

  • Growing Season: As a perennial, Alfalfa has a long growing season. It starts growing in the spring and continues through the fall.
  • Harvesting Times: The first cutting of Alfalfa usually takes place in mid-to-late spring. Similar to Bermuda grass, it can be harvested every 30 to 40 days. This can result in 4 to 6 cuttings per year, with the season extending from spring well into the fall months.

Key Factors Influencing Hay Season in Georgia

The schedules mentioned above are ideal. In reality, Georgia hay farming is a constant dance with nature. Several factors can dramatically shift hay harvesting times and overall production.

Weather and Rainfall

Weather is the most significant variable. Ample rainfall is needed for healthy growth, but dry, sunny days are essential for cutting and curing hay. An unexpected rain shower on freshly cut hay can lead to mold and a significant loss in quality. Conversely, a drought can stunt growth and drastically reduce the number of possible cuttings in a season.

Soil Conditions and Fertilization

Healthy soil is the foundation of a good hay crop. Farmers regularly test their soil’s pH and nutrient levels, applying lime and fertilizer as needed. A well-managed fertilization program ensures the grass has the resources to regrow quickly after each cutting, directly impacting the frequency and yield of the harvest.

Regional Differences

Georgia’s geography creates regional variations in hay production.

  • North Georgia: The cooler temperatures and mountainous terrain are more suitable for cool-season grasses like Fescue. The growing season may be slightly shorter than in the south.
  • South Georgia: The longer, hotter summers are perfect for high-yield warm-season grasses like Bermuda and Bahia grass. Farmers in this region often achieve more cuttings per year.

The Curing Process

Cutting the hay is only half the battle. It must be left in the field to dry, or “cure,” to the proper moisture level (typically 15-20%) before baling. This process can take anywhere from 2 to 5 days, depending on the humidity, sunshine, and thickness of the cut hay. This curing window is a critical, and often stressful, part of the hay season.

Your Next Steps

Now that you have a better understanding of when hay season happens in Georgia, you can make more informed decisions. Whether you are planning your livestock’s feed supply or managing your own pasture, knowing the cycle is key.

Is Hay Still Available in Georgia in January?

Monday, January 5th, 2026

Square bales of teff hay available selection at our hay farm.Happy New Year! Now that we’re in the first month of 2026, you may be wondering “Is Hay Still Available in Georgia in January?”

January in Georgia brings a distinct chill to the air, and with it, a new set of considerations for livestock owners and farmers. The once-plentiful fields of summer are dormant, and the focus shifts from harvesting hay to managing the supply you have. This time of year often raises many questions about hay availability, quality, and how to best care for animals through the coldest part of the year.

This guide will address the most common January hay questions in Georgia. We’ll cover everything from finding hay mid-winter to ensuring your current supply stays in top condition. By understanding the unique challenges of this month, you can confidently manage your livestock’s nutritional needs until spring arrives.

Is Hay Still Available in Georgia in January?

This is one of the most frequent questions, and the answer is: yes, but with some caveats. While hay harvesting has long since ended, we still have high-quality hay at J & J Hay Farms. However, the dynamics of buying hay change significantly in the winter.

By January, supplies have often been picked over. The highest quality hay from the previous season is typically the first to sell. This means you might have to search a bit harder or be less selective about the type of hay you purchase. It’s also a time when demand can be high, especially if a particularly cold snap increases the feeding needs of livestock across the state.

Finding hay may require contacting suppliers you haven’t used before or checking local agricultural boards and online marketplaces more frequently. Prices can also be higher than they were in the summer and fall due to the principles of supply and demand.

How Do I Check My Hay Quality Mid-Winter?

The hay you bought in September might not be the same quality by the time January rolls around. Proper storage is crucial, but it’s still wise to inspect your bales before feeding them to your animals.

  • Look for Mold: The biggest enemy of stored hay, especially in Georgia’s humid climate, is mold. Break open a bale and look for white, grey, or black dusty spots. A musty or sour smell is another clear indicator of mold. Do not feed moldy hay to your livestock, particularly horses, as it can cause serious respiratory and digestive issues.
  • Check for Dust and Debris: Excessive dust can signal poor quality or the beginning of spoilage. Also, check for any foreign objects, weeds, or dirt that may have been baled with the hay.
  • Assess Color and Texture: Good quality hay, even after months of storage, should retain some of its color—usually a pale green to yellowish-green. Hay that is brown or overly bleached has likely lost significant nutritional value due to sun exposure or rain damage. It should feel pliable, not overly brittle or damp.

What Are the Best Winter Hay Storage Tips?

Protecting your investment is paramount. How you store your hay directly impacts its quality and longevity through the winter. If you’re noticing issues with your supply, it might be time to re-evaluate your storage methods.

  • Elevate Your Bales: Never store hay directly on the ground. Moisture from the earth will seep into the bottom layer of bales, causing spoilage and waste. Use pallets, gravel, or even old tires to create a barrier between the hay and the ground.
  • Ensure Proper Ventilation: Airflow is critical for preventing moisture buildup and mold growth. When stacking hay inside a barn, leave space between the rows and between the hay and the walls. This allows air to circulate freely.
  • Cover It Correctly: A solid roof is the best protection. If you must store hay outside, use a high-quality, waterproof tarp. Secure it tightly to prevent wind from getting underneath and to ensure water runs off and away from the stack. Avoid covering the sides completely, as this can trap moisture.

How Should I Adjust Feeding for Livestock in January?

Cold weather changes everything for an animal’s dietary needs. They burn more calories just to stay warm, and hay is the primary fuel source to meet this increased energy demand.

  • Increase the Quantity: As temperatures drop, your livestock’s energy requirements go up. A good rule of thumb is to increase their hay ration to ensure they have enough fuel to maintain their body temperature. For horses, this often means providing free-choice access to hay.
  • Focus on Forage: The process of digesting forage (hay) creates heat in an animal’s body through fermentation in the hindgut. This internal furnace is a powerful tool for staying warm. Providing plenty of good-quality hay is more effective at keeping an animal warm than feeding more grain.
  • Ensure Access to Water: Don’t forget water! Livestock need adequate water intake to properly digest hay. In January, this means regularly checking and breaking ice in troughs. Dehydrated animals may not eat enough, putting them at risk in cold weather. Heated water buckets or tank de-icers can be invaluable investments.

Planning Ahead for Your Hay Needs

January serves as a critical checkpoint for your winter hay supply. Take stock of what you have left and calculate if it will last until the first pastures green up in the spring, which can be as late as April in some parts of Georgia.

If your inventory looks low, start searching for additional hay now. Don’t wait until you’re down to your last few bales. Reaching out to local farmers, even if they are sold out, can be helpful. They may know of other producers who still have hay for sale.

Use this time to plan for the upcoming year. Consider how much hay you used, what quality you needed, and where you sourced it from. Building a strong relationship with a reliable Georgia hay producer is the best way to ensure you have a consistent and high-quality supply for every season.

Strategies for Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky Eaters

Monday, November 10th, 2025

Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky EatersStrategies for Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky Eaters: Many factors and situations may reduce a horse’s appetite. It’s important to find and correct whatever it is—illness, pain, discomfort, environment—that keeps a horse from diving eagerly into his feed. As the situation is being corrected, owners can try some of the following strategies to encourage a more healthy appetite.

Picky eaters are very sensitive to feed quality. Be sure that premixed feeds and straight grains are within their printed expiration date. In addition, store feeds correctly to avoid mold or oxidation from exposure to air and moisture. In very hot weather, buy only enough feed to last a week or so. Prevent fermentation of grains and molasses in storage. Be a discerning customer when buying hay and chaff, and accept only clean, fresh-smelling forages that are free from weeds, dust, mold, and evidence of rodent infestation.

Forage:

In cases where horses are being fed a lot of grain, adding more forage to the diet can help to avoid problems such as gastric ulcers and hindgut acidity that may reduce appetite. Add forage as long-stem forage (hay or pasture) rather than chaff or other fiber sources. Offering at least 1% of body weight in forage per day is the best way to avoid digestive problems that may dull appetite.

The high glycemic index of grain feeds and the corresponding high blood sugar and insulin levels following grain meals can suppress appetite. As hard feed rations are increased, overall appetite is suppressed.

Horses find best-quality forage most palatable. The hay does not have to be prime lucerne (alfalfa) or clover hay; any clean hay that is free of dust and mold with plenty of leaf and not too much rough, woody stem that has been cured and stored correctly is preferred. Rough, stalky hay is retained in the digestive tract  longer than good-quality, leafy hay. This can affect appetite and intake of forage. Although this type of hay is unsuitable for picky eaters, it can be useful for overweight animals.

In horses that must consume concentrated energy, lucerne (alfalfa) or clover are good choices but are often better in combination with non-legume hays (grass, and cereal hays) than fed alone, where they can sometimes be too rich and cause scouring and further digestive upset.

B Vitamins:

In some cases, a deficiency of B vitamins can be the reason for suppressed appetite. Feeding plenty of forage ensures correct hindgut digestion, allowing adequate production of essential B vitamins in most cases. However, in horses that are working very hard, or those that are under stress or are scouring, B-vitamin production may fall short of requirements.

Supplementing B vitamins to horses with reduced appetite can stimulate appetite. Supplementation is best in an oral form rather than injectibles. For horses that refuse feed, mix powders with water, Give orally via a dosing syringe. Supplements should contain the full complex of B group vitamins at appropriate levels.

A course of daily supplementation for 14 to 20 days will help to stimulate appetite in horses that have gone off feed suddenly. Strategic supplementation prior to and at a show and competition can help to maintain appetite at these critical times. In some rare cases, regular supplementation seems to be required, with the horse going off feed as soon as the supplement is taken away, but correct nutritional and work balance can often alleviate inappetence enough that this is not necessary.

Oil and Fat:

In horses where no cause of poor appetite can be established, the owner or manager must come up with clever ways to get enough energy into the horse to do the job that is required in a safe way that will not affect the horse’s behavior or performance. High-fat feeds and fat/oil supplements can be a great way to get extra calories into the feed bucket in a relatively small volume of feed.

Oil and fat contains about three times the amount of energy as oats on a volume to volume basis. One cup of oil has about the same energy as 1 kg (2.2 lb) of oats. Adding oil or a high-fat supplement increases the energy density of the feed, making each mouthful more calorific.

Even if the horse only eats half of the supplemented feed, the calories taken in are significantly more than with grain feed alone. Appropriate oil choices are canola, corn (the most palatable), sunflower, or mixed vegetable oil. Choose only new oil. Avoid any oil claiming to be recycled or anything from the restaurant industry. This has been used for frying and has different properties from fresh oil.

Other high-fat supplements include rice bran, sunflower seeds, and soybean meal. These can be useful for horses with an aversion to oil. It can be used in combination with oil to reduce the overall volume of oil required. A regular amount is 1 to 2 cups of oil per day or a total of 1 to 2 kg (2.2 to 4.4 lb) of high-fat supplements with or without added oil.

Electrolytes and Salt:

Electrolytes and salt are very important in horse diets. Particularly in working horses. However, feeding too much can suppress appetite and reduce feed palatability. Generally, palatability is reduced once salt is included at more than 1% of the feed. With picky eaters, the tolerance level can be much lower than that.

In many cases, it is better to allow free-choice salt separately from the feed. Dose horses daily by syringe to get the right amount of salt and electrolytes into them. When adding or increasing salt in the feed, the best approach is to do it gradually. This will not always work with picky eaters. Yet, it can help to get the horse eating if no drastic changes are noticed in the feed.

In cases where it is imperative that the horse eats. For example, such as if the horse is sick and weak. If refusal of feed over a period of time while away at competition is affecting performance. If a horse is competing in a long-distance endurance event and is not eating well along the way. The smorgasbord approach can be very useful. Providing a range of different feedstuffs in an attempt to find something that the horse will voluntarily eat will help to satisfy the immediate requirement of getting something into the horse.

New Feedstuffs:

Do not offer new and strange feedstuffs to horses. However, in cases where the horse must eat something, this rule takes a back seat. Smorgasbord meals are usually small (around 0.5 to 1 kg or 1.1 to 2.2 lb per feed type). Once the horse has chosen a particular feed, the others are generally removed. Feedstuffs offered may include a variety of hay types. The preferred type may surprise owners who imagine that prime lucerne (alfalfa) must be the only hay they should try. Do not underestimate the palatability of fresh grass.

In terms of hard feed, the menu may include pellets. In addition, sweet feeds of different types (micronized, steam-flaked, and so on), and straight grains such as steam-flaked barley or straight oats. Leave additives and supplements out of the feed. However, additions such as carrots, apples, a little molasses, apple cider vinegar, or even fruit juice can sometimes be just the temptation the horse needs. The traditional bran mash can be a powerful tool in trying to tempt the picky eater.

A good helping of wheat bran or pollard with the addition of a handful of grain and perhaps some molasses and some carrots and/or apples soaked with warm water and fed fresh and warm can be to a horse as chicken soup is to a convalescing human patient. Bran mashes are often the first feed of choice in equine veterinary hospitals following surgery. For good reason: their proven palatability and as a great way of getting some vital fluids into a horse.

Dealing with picky eaters can be frustrating. The trick is to work out why the horse is not eating. Then, fix the root cause of the problem.

Resources:

In conclusion, do you have questions about Strategies for Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky Eaters? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Article by KER.

Advantages of Haynets and Hay Feeders for Horses

Wednesday, November 5th, 2025

Advantages of Haynets and Hay Feeders for Horses depicts a photo of a horse eating from a haynetAdvantages of Haynets and Hay Feeders for Horses: While forage is the most important part of a horse’s diet, circumstances arise when intake should be limited. Obese horses and ponies with metabolic conditions, for example, may need to have calorie intake controlled carefully to avoid overconsumption of energy. Limiting forage intake can mean less time spent chewing, and with this comes a reduction in saliva production and stomach-acid buffering, all of which sets the stage for gastric ulcers and possible colic.

Haynets:

Haynets help prolong the time it takes a horse to consume forage by providing a physical barrier that prevents fast consumption. They are manufactured with holes of varying sizes, and differences in this design feature can affect how fast a horse consumes hay.

Researchers at the University of Minnesota found that horses took longer to consume hay from haynets with small holes (3.2 cm) or medium (4.4 cm) holes compared to large holes (15.2 cm) or the control group fed without haynets*. The researchers even found a difference in consumption rates between haynets with small and medium holes.

Aside from slowing consumption, there is another benefit to using barriers to extend consumption of forage. Researchers concluded that the use of haynets decreased overall stress in horses on restricted diets, while simultaneously achieving weight loss**.

Hay Management:

Depending on the management situation, owners sometimes find that a lot of hay is wasted when not fed in a haynet or feeder. Hay wastage can be minimized with proper use of a square-bale feeder. A study on feeder design (basket, slat, or rack) found that feeders reduced the amount of hay wasted when fed outside compared to hay fed without a feeder+. With less waste, feeders reduced the overall cost of providing hay.

Further, while many horses can maintain their weight on all-forage diets, forage does not provide all of the nutrients horses need for top-notch nutrition. Mature horses should be fed a vitamin/mineral supplement to make up for any nutritional shortfalls.

Whether the goal is to carefully control forage intake or simply to minimize waste, haynets and hay feeders offer practical solutions.

Resources:

Interested in learning more about the Advantages of Haynets and Hay Feeders for Horses? Visit or call J & J Hay Farms for more information!

*Glunk, E.C., M.R. Hathaway, W.J. Weber, C.C. Sheaffer, and K.L. Martinson. 2014. The effect of hay net design on rate of forage consumption when feeding adult horses. Journal of Equine Veterinary Science 34(8):986-991.

**Glunk, E.C. 2014. Methods of restricting forage intake in horses. Dissertation abstract, accessed online.

+Grev, A., A. Glunk, M. Hathaway, W. Lazarus, and K. Martinson. The effect of small square-bale feeder design on hay waste, hay intake and economics during outdoor feeding of adult horses. University of Minnesota Equine Extension. 

 

Feeding and Caring for Horses During Cold Weather

Thursday, October 30th, 2025

Feeding and Caring for Horses During Cold WeatherFeeding and Caring for Horses During Cold Weather: Healthy horses usually get along fine in moderately cold weather. A little more care may be necessary for very young or very old equines. In addition, those that are ill or have any sort of chronic health challenge. In extremely cold, wet, or windy weather, almost all horses will benefit from a few adjustments to management.

Shelter:

Shelter is important! Athough horses don’t necessarily have to be kept in stalls. Horses that are left outside, but with free access to shelter, will use a shed or building if they need it. Just getting out of a cold breeze is helpful in maintaining body warmth. The lee side of a hill, group of trees, or steep bank can be almost as good as a run-in shed or barn in breaking the force of a moderate wind. Owners should be sure that all horses have access to some type of sheltered area extensive enough so that dominant horses can completely exclude submissive members of the herd.

Staying Dry:

Staying dry is a big part of staying warm. The horse’s coat will shed some rain unless it lasts a long time or is driven by a strong wind. In severe weather, outdoor horses may benefit from waterproof blankets. However, blanketed horses should be checked several times a day to be sure the blanket fits well and doesn’t rub the horse’s coat.

Putting a blanket on a wet horse prevents the coat from drying. Therefore horses should be brought into a stall and allowed to dry completely before blankets are put on. In a pinch, a blanket can be put on a wet horse and fastened loosely. Use large handfuls of straw or hay placed at frequent intervals between the horse’s skin and the inside of the blanket so that air can circulate to help the coat dry. This is a temporary solution. The horse will need to have this blanket removed and a completely dry one put on before he is either left in the stall or turned out.

Providing Hay:

The horse generates a great deal of heat through the process of fermenting roughage in the hindgut. For this reason, providing more hay is the first step in keeping horses warm during cold weather. For moderate winter conditions with air temperatures down to the teens or single digits, the horse needs to have an amount of hay equal to about 1.5 to 2% of his body weight every day. As the temperature falls, another 2 to 3 lb (1 to 1.5 kg) of hay should be provided for every additional five degrees below zero (Fahrenheit). Young horses, older horses, and pregnant or lactating broodmares may need grain in addition to their forage ration. Increasing forage should be done before the grain ration is increased.

Clean Water:

Access to clean water that is not too cold is extremely important for horses during the winter season. Horses will drink water that is just above freezing. However, they will drink more if the water is somewhat warmer. Don’t count on horses eating snow to quench their thirst! This practice doesn’t supply much liquid and can seriously decrease the horse’s body temperature. Horses that don’t drink enough are at increased risk for impaction and choke, conditions that often require veterinary intervention. Be sure water supplies are not frozen and are adequate for all horses.

Resources:

In conclusion, do you have questions about Feeding and Caring for Horses During Cold Weather? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Article Sources: Kentucky Equine Research

 

Avoiding Colic as Horses Transition from Pasture to Hay

Friday, September 5th, 2025

Avoiding Colic as Horses Transition from Pasture to HayAvoiding Colic as Horses Transition from Pasture to Hay: It happens every year. Horses that have been turned out in pastures all summer must transition to a diet that contains far less fresh grass and far more hay. This means that the important fiber portion of the diet will have a lower moisture content along with a significant increase in the percentage of dry matter. Read further to learn how to avoid colic as horses transition from pasture to hay.

Throughout the fall and winter months, owners should continue to allow as much turnout as possible. Any change to a horse’s diet should be made as gradually as possible in order to avoid colic and other digestive tract upsets. Fortunately for horse owners, the move from grass to hay naturally follows this pattern as pasture growth declines and plants enter a dormant stage. Horses that have access to pasture will continue to graze, but the forage they ingest will slowly drop in moisture and lose its fresh characteristics.

Water is Essential:

Providing plenty of fresh, clean water is essential in every season, but it is particularly important when hay is being fed and horses are not getting much moisture from their forage intake. Extremely cold water is less appealing than water that has been warmed to around 50° F. Water at this temperature still feels very cold on human skin, but it is readily consumed by horses.

Access to salt, either loose or in a block, is also important. Sprinkling a bit of salt on grain or dampened hay will stimulate the horse to drink more water.

Exercise and Consumption:

Throughout the fall and winter months, owners should continue to allow as much turnout as possible. According to Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., senior equine nutritionist at Kentucky Equine Research, “Exercise helps to keep ingested material moving through the horse’s digestive tract. Pastured horses cover a lot more ground than stalled horses. Especially if they are turned out with a buddy or two.” If outdoor exercise isn’t available, be sure that all horses get at least a few hours of riding, driving, longeing, or free exercise in a covered arena each day.

Monitor hay consumption while horses are in their stalls. If one horse is not consuming much hay, or if you find wads of partially chewed hay lying on the floor in this horse’s stall, he may need to have his teeth checked. Dental exams should be scheduled for all horses once or twice a year. Some horses, especially older equine, can develop problems between checkups.

Hay and Supplements:

When a new batch of hay is delivered, introduce it by feeding a small amount of the new hay mixed into the old. Increase the percentage of new hay gradually over five to seven days. This allows the microbes in the horse’s gut to adjust to the change and prevents upsets.

Inspect each bale of hay as it is opened. Discard any hay that smells musty or shows signs of mold. Most horses will refuse to eat hay that is moldy. Even if the mold is so slight that humans can’t detect it. However, extremely hungry horses may eat tainted hay. It should never be fed and should be disposed of in an area where horses can’t reach it.

Research-proven digestive supplements can help horses that are prone to colic during feed transitions. EquiShure, a supplement developed by Kentucky Equine Research, stabilizes the pH of the hindgut. Changes in feed sometimes cause the pH to fluctuate wildly, which can set the stage for colic or laminitis.

Would you like more information about hay diets and how to avoid colic as horses transition from pasture to hay? Contact us at J & J Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

Balancing Equine Diets: The Vitamin A and E Connection

Saturday, August 30th, 2025

Woman riding a healthy horse. Balancing Equine Diets: The Vitamin A and E ConnectionBalancing Equine Diets: The Vitamin A and E Connection. Proper nutrition is at the heart of horse care, and ensuring your horse receives the right balance of vitamins and minerals is critical for their health and performance. Among the essential nutrients, vitamins A and E play a pivotal role in maintaining overall well-being. However, because horses cannot produce these vital vitamins on their own, they rely entirely on their diet to meet their needs.

If you’re a horse owner or equestrian looking to optimize your horse’s diet, it’s important to understand how these vitamins function, their sources, and when supplementation might be necessary. Our guide will help you master the vitamin A and E connection in equine diets.

Why Do Horses Need Vitamin A and E?

Horses require vitamin A and E for a variety of physiological functions that are essential to their health:

What Vitamin A Does for Horses

Vitamin A is vital for vision, immunity, and reproduction. It’s also essential for healthy skin and mucous membranes, which act as the first line of defense against infections. Horses primarily obtain vitamin A from beta-carotene, a pigment found in fresh green forages. Beta-carotene is converted into vitamin A once ingested.

Deficiency in vitamin A can lead to symptoms such as:

  • Poor coat condition
  • Vision problems, particularly night blindness
  • Weakened immunity
  • Reproductive challenges

The Role of Vitamin E

Vitamin E significantly contributes to a horse’s immune functions and muscular health. It acts as a natural antioxidant, protecting cells from oxidative stress and free radicals, which can occur during exercise or due to environmental stressors. It also supports muscle function and nerve health.

Signs of vitamin E deficiency include:

  • Muscle weakness or stiffness
  • Poor performance and recovery in active horses
  • Compromised immune health
  • Neurological disorders like Equine Motor Neuron Disease (EMND)

Together, vitamins A and E are essential for maintaining your horse’s vitality, immune defense, and overall well-being. Yet, the availability of these vitamins in a horse’s diet depends heavily on the quality of the forage they eat.

Horses and Vitamin Sources

Fresh Green Forage as the Ideal Source

Forage, specifically fresh green grass, is the primary and natural source of vitamins A and E in a horse’s diet. Horses grazing on lush, healthy pastures typically receive an abundant supply of these vitamins. This is particularly true in spring and early summer when fresh forage is at its peak nutrient content.

The beta-carotene present in green grass can sustain a horse’s vitamin A needs, while forage also provides ample vitamin E. Horses grazing for 16 to 18 hours a day consume more than enough nutrients to support their biological needs without requiring supplementation.

Hay and the Decline in Vitamin Levels

While fresh forage is an excellent source of these vitamins, the story changes once grass is dried and stored as hay. Shortly after harvesting, the concentrations of vitamins A and E begin to degrade. Within just a few months of storage, vitamin content in hay and hay products can drop significantly.

Processed hay cubes, pellets, or even high-quality first-cut hay are typically stored for extended periods, by which point their vitamin levels are negligible. This makes supplementation crucial for horses relying primarily on hay-based diets, particularly during the winter months when pasture access is limited.

When to Consider Supplementation

Evaluating Your Horse’s Access to Fresh Forage

Start by assessing the amount of quality grazing available to your horse. Horses with consistent access to fresh grass rarely need additional supplementation of vitamins A and E. However, if pasture availability is reduced due to seasonal changes or overgrazing, deficiencies may arise.

Horses in Work or Stressful Situations

Performance horses and those undergoing physical stress often need higher levels of vitamin E than a typical diet can provide. This is especially true for horses involved in competitions, high-intensity training, or those recovering from illness or injury.

Pregnant and Lactating Mares

Mares in late pregnancy or during lactation also have heightened vitamin A demands to maintain their health and support their foal’s development. Supplementing their diet with appropriate levels of vitamin A can ensure these needs are met.

Older Horses

Aging horses may have decreased efficiency in absorbing vitamins from their diet. For these horses, providing additional support through fortified feeds or targeted supplementation can prevent deficiencies.

Horses on Hay-Based Diets

If your horse relies largely on hay or processed forage, supplementation with vitamins A and E is typically recommended. For example, studies have shown that after just three months of storage, hay loses up to 80% of its vitamin E content.

Understanding Vitamin Dosage and Form

When supplementing your horse’s diet, understanding appropriate vitamin levels is essential. Over-supplementation can be just as harmful as deficiencies.

Vitamin A

For an average adult horse, the recommended daily intake of vitamin A is 30,000 IU (International Units). However, exceeding 80,000 IU can lead to toxicity, causing symptoms such as decreased appetite, weight loss, or even liver damage.

Vitamin E

The suggested daily intake of vitamin E for a maintenance-level horse is around 500-1,000 IU. Performance horses or horses without access to fresh pasture may require up to 5,000 IU daily. Unlike vitamin A, vitamin E is not associated with toxicity, as any excess is typically excreted. However, always follow the guidance of an equine nutritionist or veterinarian when creating a supplement plan.

Supplement Options

When selecting supplements, look for high-quality, bioavailable products. Natural vitamin E supplements (d-alpha-tocopherol) are better absorbed by horses compared to synthetic options. Similarly, vitamin A is often provided in the form of retinyl acetate or palmitate for supplementation.

Tips for Balancing Your Horse’s Diet

  1. Test Forage Quality:

Get your hay and forage tested to determine the actual nutrient content. This will help you identify any gaps in your horse’s diet.

  1. Consult an Equine Nutritionist:

Work with a professional to ensure your horse’s overall nutritional needs are met based on their age, workload, and health status.

  1. Monitor Health:

Keep an eye out for any signs of deficiency or excess and adjust your horse’s diet accordingly.

  1. Choose Fortified Feeds:

Many commercial feeds are fortified with vitamins and minerals to complement hay-based diets.

Keeping Your Horse Healthy Year-Round

Maintaining a balanced diet rich in essential vitamins is critical to keeping your horse happy and healthy. Vitamin A and E, in particular, should never be overlooked. By understanding their importance, their sources, and when to supplement, you can provide your horse with the absolute best care and nutrition.

For personalized diet recommendations, consult a trusted equine nutritionist or veterinarian. After all, a well-balanced diet is the first step toward your horse’s peak performance and longevity.

Do you have more questions about Balancing Equine Diets: The Vitamin A and E Connection? Contact J  & J Hay Farms today.