Author Archive

Hay Selection for Horses

Monday, February 10th, 2025

Long-Stem vs. Short-Stem Forages Hay Selection for HorsesAside from pasture, hay is the predominant forage consumed by horses. So, its value in equine diets is unquestionable. During certain times of year, hay may be the only forage available to horses. Therefore the selection of well-preserved hay harvested at the appropriate stage of maturity is critical.

When evaluating hay selection for horses,  it’s important to understand that hay can be classified into three general types: legume, grass, and mixed. Mixed hay is usually defined as a blend of grass and legume plants, though some hay producers and horse owners may define it as a combination of several grasses. Like most horse owners, Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., has opened hundreds of bales of hay during her lifetime of owning and caring for horses. While most horse owners are mindful of the hay they offer their horses, Crandell is perhaps more vigilant than most. As a nutritionist with Kentucky Equine Research (KER), she understands the importance of good-quality hay.

Legume Hay

When evaluating legume hays, Crandell first establishes the type of hay. Although the most popular legume used among horse owners is alfalfa, other legumes such as red or crimson clover, lespedeza, birdsfoot trefoil, and peanut hay are often fed, and these provide horses with high-quality nutrients.

Evaluating:

Evaluating hay requires a thorough visual appraisal. Because the outside of a bale can be misleading, especially if it was situated on the edge of a stack with exposure to the sun or other elements, appraisal necessitates breaking open several bales. Small bales can be opened easily, but the same cannot be said for larger round bales. Pure legumes are rarely roundbaled, but if faced with tightly wound round bales that cannot be opened, an instrument designed to remove core samples from the inside of hay bales, called a hay probe, can be used. Probes are used to collect hay samples for chemical analysis and nutrient determination. Hay collected in the probe should be assessed just as carefully as that in entire bales.

Crandell next evaluates the color of the hay. “It might be bright green, brownish-green, or pale green, or it might not be green at all; perhaps it is yellow. Color is not the end-all, be-all in determining hay quality, but it can be a clue to how it was made. If it is bright green, then I know the hay was likely cut at an appropriate time, that it was probably not rained on after cutting, and that it dried quickly and was baled in a timely manner. When baled under optimal conditions, the most nutrients are preserved.”

It is not unusual to run into bales that have both green and brown plant material, according to Crandell. If the leaves are brown, the hay is likely to have less nutritional value, as leaves deliver the most nutrients. If, on the other hand, the occasional stem is brown but the leaves are green and well-anchored to the stem, then the hay is probably still nutritious.

“Yellow, brown, or otherwise faded hay indicates that it was made at a mature stage, laid in the field longer to dry, or possibly rained on after being cut in the field, all of which would indicate lost nutrients through leaching by the sun or rain,” said Crandell.

Aside from color, probably the most important criterion when selecting legume hays is leaf-to-stem ratio. A profusion of leaves and few stems indicates that the hay was made at the desired maturity and that few leaves came loose during baling. The opposite is often true with legumes, and these hays sometimes have an abundance of stems and few leaves. This usually means that the leaves came off during baling or when the hay was lying in the field.

“I also look at stem coarseness, as this tells me the stage of maturity of the plants when they were harvested. The stem contains few nutrients and a great deal of indigestible fiber. Aside from marginal nutrition, if the stems are too mature, horses do not particularly like to eat them,” added Crandell.

The presence of mold, unusual growths on leaves, insects, and suspicious plants is noted. With alfalfa, Crandell recommends a thorough scan of multiple bales for blister beetles. Because these lethal insects often swarm, it is possible for only a few bales to be infected.

“I might shake a couple of handfuls to see how much dust flies off. Almost all hay has some dust, but if a large cloud erupts, it’s probably best to pass but imperatively so if you have a horse with a respiratory ailment aggravated by dust. I almost always try to smell the hay to see if it is fresh, stale, or moldy. If the hay was baled wet, it might have a distinct smell that results from caramelization of proteins,” remarked Crandell.

Other Legumes

While alfalfa is the most well-known legume hay, clover hays are appropriate for horses, even if they are not as popular with horse owners as alfalfa. One reason horse owners often avoid clover is its propensity for mold. Getting clover to dry quickly in the field is challenging for growers, and premature baling of damp hay is the primary reason clover hay is sometimes moldy.

From a nutritional standpoint, clovers and alfalfa are very similar. Higher in calcium and protein, and more calorie-dense than grass hays. Red clover is the most common clover hay because it grows taller than white clover and thus provides more yield per acre. Crimson clover is another tall-growing type. But, it tends to be higher in indigestible fiber than red clover. Palatability is usually not an issue. However, as horses are inclined to love the taste of clover and eat it well.

Certain horse owners associate clover with excessive salivation. They mistakenly believe that it is the clover plant that causes horses to slobber. But, the causative agent is actually a mycotoxin produced by a fungus that grows on clover. Known as slaframine poisoning, excessive salivation is not life-threatening.

Grass Hays

Popular grass hays can be divided into two basic groups, cool-season and warm-season. In general, cool-season grasses are more palatable to horses. But, warm-season grasses are accepted by horses, especially by those accustomed to them. The most common cool-season grasses in the United States are timothy, orchardgrass, ryegrass, fescue, redtop, reed canary grass. Occasionally bluegrass in the East; and wheatgrass, blue grama, bluestem, and meadow in the Midwest and West. Warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass (referred to as coastal), bromegrass, and most recently teff.

Categories

A special category of grasses are cereal hays. These hays are made from leaves, stems, and grains of oat, barley, and wheat plants. A good quality cereal hay is harvested when the grain is immature (soft dough stage) and the leaves and stems are still green, and therefore higher in digestible nutrients. If the cereal hay is harvested after the grain is removed, it is no longer considered hay but straw. Oat hay is the most common cereal hay fed in the United States, and if harvested at the right time, it is quite palatable to horses.

For some horse owners, the gold standard among grass hays is timothy due largely to its extreme palatability. Though Crandell agrees that timothy is appetizing to most horses, she also believes “the most palatable hay to a horse is the type he is accustomed to.” Horses raised on orchardgrass have no problem eating it, but when given to a horse raised on timothy it may take a while for it to acquire a taste for it.

Fescue

Fescue has gained much attention over the last couple decades for its sometimes detrimental effects on pregnant mares when it is infected with an endophyte fungus. As a pasture grass, horses seem to consume more of it in the fall after a frost has hit and the sugar content has risen. As hay, it would be harvested in the spring and summer. Palatability might not be an issue for certain horses

Crandell uses the same process of evaluating grass hays as she does for legumes. To determine the type of grass, seed heads are the most telling. Though blade characteristics are also useful. “Fescue blades roll up lengthwise when dried. While orchardgrass blades dry open, so it is very easy to distinguish these two plants. Reed canary grass is distinctive because it has a broader blade than most hays. Yet it is uncommon enough for few horse owners to be able to identify it,” said Crandell.

Distinguishing

Distinguishing hay types is important, if only from the standpoint of purchasing the appropriate hay. “Many orchardgrass hays are sold as timothy because the average horse owner does not know the difference in the seed heads. On the east coast of the United States, I would say a mix of grasses in a hay is more common than any pure single-species hay like you find on the opposite coast,” remarked Crandell. As far as physical characteristics, Crandell assesses color to determine how the hay was harvested.

The color is somewhat dependent on the type of hay. Timothy hay is usually lighter in color than orchardgrass unless the orchardgrass is harvested at a very mature stage. An overall brownish tinge could mean the hay was baled too wet and went through a caramelizing stage. Warm-season hays are typically not as attractive as the cool-season types, as they are often more golden in color. Cereal hays should be light green in color; a yellow, straw-like color would indicate that the hay was harvested too late and will be of lower nutritional value.

She then estimates plant maturity. “Maturity is judged by the number and age of the seed heads, ratio of leaves and stalks, color, and texture. I grab a handful or two to get an idea of the hay’s texture. Early-maturity hays are softer to the touch than late-maturity ones.” As with legumes, Crandell checks for dust and unusual odor indicative of mold.

Mixed Hays

The term mixed hay can be an ambiguous one, which makes clarification essential. Mixed grass hays usually include a medley of grasses. Some grown specifically for hay intended for horses and others not. While common grass/legume mixes include timothy/alfalfa, orchardgrass/ alfalfa, and orchardgrass/clover. “I have seen lovely bales of the classic timothy/alfalfa mix. Specifically, the orchardgrass/red clover mix is especially useful for picky eaters. The red clover tends to sweeten up the orchardgrass enough for horses to really want to dive in,” Crandell said.

Mixing grasses with a legume has two notable benefits. The first involves improvement of the land. Legumes add nitrogen to the soil, so growing legumes with grasses can cut down on fertilizer needs and growing costs. The other advantage involves palatability, as adding a legume to a grass can increase sweetness and consumption. Introduction of a legume also improves the quality by increasing energy, protein, and calcium.

Some horse owners prefer grass/legume mixes over pure legume. A mixture more or less averages the content of certain key nutrients to make it appropriate for different classes of horses. A practical advantage occurs as well. When grasses and legumes are grown together it is more difficult for horses to pick out the tasty portions, as they could if fed a flake of legume and a flake of grass.

Understanding the ins and outs of hay selection is an important aspect of horse ownership. The true test of hay quality rests with the horses, though, and if they offer up their approval by consuming it readily, selection was a success.

Micro-Max is a low-intake concentrated source of vitamins and minerals for mature horses. Micro-Max is ideal for horses that maintain body weight on diets composed entirely of forage or forage and small amounts of concentrate. Learn more.

Source:

Old Horses, Cold Weather, and Forage Intake

Tuesday, February 4th, 2025

Old Horses, Cold Weather, and Forage Intake: Fresh grasses provide old horses with much of the nutrition they require to maintain health. As pasture quality wanes in the autumn, owners of old horses often begin to worry about providing sufficient forage. This is true especially if dental problems make hay-chewing difficult. Horses with missing or diseased teeth frequently chew grass more easily than hay. Consider these three strategies to increase fiber intake as fresh pasture becomes scarce.

Use pelleted or cubed forages:

Horses that cannot get nutrients from hay because of poor dentition often do well on hay pellets or cubes. Alfalfa (lucerne) hay makes up these products. However, pellets and cubes made from grass hays, such as timothy, are available.

“Horses generally find hay pellets and cubes palatable,” noted Catherine Whitehouse, M.S., a nutrition advisor with Kentucky Equine Research (KER). Dampen these products. Soften them prior to feeding. “Pellets and cubes can be soaked using different amounts of water to suit an individual horse’s preference, as some horses can be finicky about the wetness of a feed.” Cubes might have to be broken apart and moistened thoroughly in order for horses to get the most out of them.

Consider the use of chopped forage:

Several companies offer alfalfa and timothy hay in chopped form, with individual pieces of forage only a few inches long. Chopped forage is easier for horses to chew and swallow. “These products are sometimes coated lightly with a vegetable oil. For example, canola oil. It reduces dust. The canola oil is an additional source of calories, for horses with weight-maintenance issues” explained Whitehouse.

Find a well-fortified complete feed:

A “complete” feed contains rich energy and fiber sources. These are designed to be fed either without hay or with very little hay (1-2 lb; 0.45-0.9 kg). Complete feeds are pelleted or textured. Fiber sources include beet pulp, alfalfa meal, and soy hulls. The hindgut readily ferments the,. Complete feeds, when offered without long-stem forage, are meant to be fed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, which will usually be 1-2% of the horse’s body weight, said Whitehouse.

Many horse owners are not familiar or comfortable with feeding this much bagged product. Owners may be hesitant. However, they should remember the deficit must be filled with another source of energy. For example, in this case the complete feed. Split complete feed into three or four meals per day.

Dental Dysfunction/Quidding:

Dental dysfunction in older horses is usually progressive, occurring slowly over time. In addition to annual or semi-annual dental examinations, paying careful attention to chewing habits and body condition will often provide clues as to when alternative forage sources are necessary. Quidding is a telltale sign of dental problems, and occurs when a horse takes a bite of forage, wets it with saliva, rolls it within the mouth, and then spits it back out.

When a horse begins to show signs of quidding, it is best to move on to chopped or cubed hay, both of which have intermediate fiber length. When chewing these becomes more difficult for the horse, pelleted forage, which has the shortest fiber length is the next choice.

Add vegetable oil to any or all of these forage sources. “Choose an oil with a favorable fatty acid profile such as canola or soybean oil. Alternatively,  added stabilized rice bran to the ration,” suggested Whitehouse.

Do you have question about Old Horses, Cold Weather, and Forage Intake? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

 

Check Broodmare Hay for Fescue

Monday, January 20th, 2025

Broodmare eating HayCheck Broodmare Hay for Fescue: Fescue…what’s not to love? Landowners throughout North America and in other parts of the world such as New Zealand and Australia enjoy its numerous benefits. The perennial’s hardiness allows it to thrive despite heavy hoof traffic, intense grazing, and adverse growing conditions.

Are you asking yourself about that slight problem of endophyte contamination? Slight, it’s not; in fact, it has been estimated that 75% of all fescue is infected with the specific endophyte Acremonium coenophialum.

Endophyte Contamination:

An endophyte is a fungus that grows inside another plant without detriment to the host plant. In some instances, the fungus actually provides benefit to the host plant. Such is the case with Acremonium coenophialum. The fungus produces alkaloids, and these alkaloids protect the plant against certain natural insults such as insects and nematodes. Because of their increased durability, the plants become more tolerant to marginal soils and suboptimal growing conditions.

Most mare owners know the dangers of grazing late-pregnant mares on endophyte-infected tall fescue. The grass causes legions of problems, collectively called fescue toxicosis, in broodmares. Issues include prolonged gestation (as long as 13 to 14 months), foaling difficulties, thickened placentas (including “red bag” emergencies), and a decrease or complete absence of milk upon delivery. The ill effects of tall fescue consumption can continue beyond foaling frustrations, as affected mares may be hard to get back in foal, leaving breeders with a smaller foal crop the following year.

Removing mares from endophyte-infected tall fescue 90 days before foaling has been an effective management technique, and newer varieties of tall fescue are endophyte-free, giving breeders peace of mind. These newer varieties, however, do not possess the resiliency of their forebears. Not only are they more susceptible to adverse conditions, these varieties seem to be more difficult to maintain.

While horsemen are usually most concerned with guaranteeing that pastures contain no fescue or endophyte free fescue, the problem-causing fungus can get into a mare’s diet unintentionally. This is likely to happen in one of two ways, as hay or as bedding.

Providing the Right Hay:

Providing hay is often a staple of broodmare management in winter months. Pasture plants are dormant. Baled Hay usually meets forage requirements. High-quality grass hay is usually a suitable choice for broodmares, as it satisfies nutrient requirements without the extra calories and cost of alfalfa hay.

Grass hay is rarely pure, however. The exception is popular forage types such as timothy or orchardgrass. They have a higher level of purity. Grass hay is “mixed.” Mixed grass hay may include fescue. Especially if it is purchased from an unknown buyer. Endophyte might infect that fescue. While fescue is easy to identify in pastures and hayfields, it tends to blend with other grasses as it dries. Like other grasses such as bluegrass and orchardgrass, tall fescue leaves roll into a tight cylinder during the curing process, making a positive identification problematic. Commercial tests are available to detect the fungus in living plants. However, there is no such test for the presence of the endophyte in hay.

Fescue is rarely raised exclusively as hay intended for horses. Even when it is, it is usually harvested at a late stage of maturity when palatability and nutrient value are low. Because of palatability issues, horses often waste it, preferring to lie in it than eat it.

Therefore, when purchasing hay for pregnant mares, be sure it is free of fescue. If fescue is discovered, double-check that the plants were harvested from an endophyte-free stand. The hay should be fed to other horses or livestock if this cannot be ascertained definitively. Endophyte-infected fescue causes few side effects in non-pregnant mares.

Horse Bedding:

Some forage that is unsuitable for consumption by horses ends up being used as bedding. This is a common practice on large farms where many horses are given fresh bedding each night or when straw is in short supply.

Fescue is sometimes chosen as such a bedding. (As a result of its poor nutritional quality.)

In some circumstances, mares may consume the bedding, putting themselves at risk for fescue toxicosis. Horses will generally gravitate toward high-quality forage. However, it is not unusual for some to chomp through a fair amount of bedding. In fact, more than a few horses cannot be bedded on straw because of their penchant for consuming this seemingly bland-tasting forage. As a precaution, an experienced agronomist or other specialist should inspect discarded or inferior forage before it is used to bed down the stalls of mares in late gestation.

Further, used bedding that has been stripped from stalls should not be strewn on fields grazed by mares. Seed may fall from the dried plants and germinate in the field. As a result, contaminating the fields and giving cause for complete renovation of pasture areas, if they’re to be used for grazing mares. In summary, remember these key points when fine-tuning a management program for broodmares.

Key Points:

• Scrutinize hay for fescue just as carefully as you would analyze pasture. This is especially true for farms that purchase hay from multiple suppliers. The endophyte that causes fescue toxicosis is just as detrimental in hay as it is in fresh forage.

• Choose bedding wisely. Baled pasture clippings may be an economical bedding choice. However, be sure no fescue plants are intermixed with the other grasses. Even though fescue is not a particularly enticing forage for horses, some mares might stray from their heaps of high-quality hay to add variety to their diets.

• Do not spread soiled bedding that includes fescue waste on pastures that may one day be grazed by mares. The plants may contain seeds that could germinate and grow.

For more Tips to Check Broodmare Hay for Fescue, visit us at J&J Hay Farms!

Article Source: Kentucky Equine Research

 

Cold-Weather Horse Diets

Friday, January 10th, 2025

Cold-Weather Horse Diets - a white horse is eating hayCold-Weather Horse Diets: Those cold winter months of mud, slush, and frozen ground…owners dread them. The horses? For the most part, they don’t seem to care. In fact, many seem to be energized by the crisp air and chilly breezes.

Very young, very old, or ailing horses may need specific changes in stable routine. However, healthy horses with an intact coat can usually tolerate winter weather with few problems. Especially if owners pay attention to basic feeding and management principles.

Water

If it’s not the most important winter consideration, water is at least near the top of the list. Even when the horse is not working and sweating, water consumption is necessary to prevent impaction of ingested material in the intestinal tract. Horses naturally tend to drink somewhat less water when the temperature drops. As a result, make every effort to ensure sufficient intake. Owners can start with these management steps:

Provide a constant supply of clean water that is not too cold. Experts disagree on the exact “favorite” water temperature. Horses will drink water that is quite cold. They tend to ingest a larger amount when water is warmed to around 45 or 50 degrees F (4 to 15 degrees C). Water that is hot to the touch is not suitable.

Make sure water sources aren’t frozen. For example, by using insulated buckets, installing an electric heater, or frequently providing warmed water. NOTE: being shocked will back horses off a water tank, even if they are extremely thirsty.

If you have a heated water tank that horses are not using, check and check again (use an extremely sensitive voltmeter, or schedule a visit from an electrician) to be certain there is no “stray” voltage. Some horses will react to voltage that is too slight for humans to detect, while other horses (and most cattle) don’t seem to be bothered.

Add water to feed. Give occasional bran mashes. Sprinkle salt on feed to stimulate a thirst response. These are all useful techniques. However, these measures by themselves may not ensure adequate water intake. Also, don’t count on horses eating snow to stay hydrated. Melting snow in the mouth and stomach uses so much energy that it’s difficult for the horse to maintain a safe body temperature.

Hay

Fermentation of fiber in the horse’s hindgut is the major heat source that keeps horses comfortable through the colder months. Therefore, a steady supply of hay is crucial. While many horses continue to graze some pasture, hay usually provides the majority of winter forage.

Type and amount of hay will vary depending on a horse’s size, metabolism, and workload. At a minimum, start with the basic guideline of feeding enough hay to equal about 1.5 % to 2% of the horse’s body weight (around 15 to 20 pounds (6.8 to 9 kilograms) a day for a horse weighing 1000 pounds (453 kilograms)), and increase as needed when the temperature drops.

Types of Horses

Easy keepers and horses doing minimal work get along well on medium-quality grass hay (can contain a few weeds, may have been cut when a little more mature than optimum).

Horses with average metabolisms will do better on good-quality grass hay (mostly free of weeds, made from grass that was not over-mature at cutting).

Heavily exercised horses or those with special needs (older horses, thin horses, horses recovering from illness) may need a grass-legume mix or even a straight alfalfa hay.

As a general rule, shivering horses that regularly clean up every scrap of hay probably need to have their hay ration increased. Horses that simply enjoy eating will also consume every flake in sight. Increasing their ration is not a good idea.

You can tell the difference by using a weight tape every few weeks through the winter to track changes, uncovering the situation of heavy-coated horses that appear fat when they are actually losing weight. Likewise, horses that leave some hay untouched may seem to have been overfed. It is also possible they are leaving weeds, rough plants, or flakes containing mold. Inspect the rejected material. Purchase better-quality hay if necessary.

Stalled horses have plenty of time to pick through their hay, munching a few mouthfuls now and then as the hours pass.

Pastured horses that eat hay in a group setting need to be monitored. Be sure that low-status animals have adequate access to hay. Very timid horses may need to be fed hay separately or in smaller groups. Spacing hay piles widely in the field and offering several extra piles can minimize this problem.

Concentrates

Winter diets usually include concentrates for two reasons: nutrients and energy. Hay and dormant grasses don’t have the same nutritional value as fresh pasture. Overcome this lack by feeding a fortified sweet feed or pelleted product.

Concentrates also pack a lot more energy than grass or hay. Horses that are eating plenty of good-quality hay and are still not maintaining their weight may need additional calories in cold, windy, damp weather.

As with hay selection, the type of concentrate depends on the individual horse, and most feed dealers offer a variety of choices to meet the needs of young, mature, old, working, or breeding horses. Feeds containing beet pulp or soy hulls, so-called super fibers, include highly digestible fiber along with more traditional sources of energy. Corn oil, rice bran, and other fat products boost the caloric density of a horse’s ration.

Overweight horses that need vitamins and minerals in a low-calorie package can be given a supplement that provides only these nutrients. Remember to feed no more than about five pounds of pellets or sweet feed at one time. Break larger feedings into several small meals spaced throughout the day.

Beyond the basics

Water, hay, concentrated feed…a winter diet containing these elements is a good starting point. Good managers, however, ensure the comfort of the horses in their care by attending to a few more details.

  • Horses should have access to shelter from extreme weather. This can be a barn, run-in shed, windbreak, or even a grove of trees. As with access to hay, low-status horses may be blocked from shelter by more aggressive animals. Alternative grouping may be necessary.
  • Owners should be sure horses have proper dental care and periodic dewormings so that feed can be properly digested and utilized.
  • Daily inspection of horses in winter months should include a light grooming, an all-over check for injuries, and an inspection for skin problems.
  • Water consumption and manure consistency should be monitored (very dry manure is a sign that the horse may be becoming dehydrated).

In conclusion, J & J Hay can help to answer horse-health and hay related questions.

Article Source: Kentucky Equine Research

Managing Horses on Declining Pasture

Sunday, January 5th, 2025

Managing Horses on Declining PastureManaging Horses on Declining Pasture: As the growing season winds down or as drought sets in, horse owners must provide horses with an appropriate alternative forage to fulfill fiber requirements. In most cases, this involves the use of hay.  Although other products such as haylage or hay cubes are appropriate and sometimes fed.

The question that looms large for most owners is when to offer alternative forage. The pasture reveals a couple of important clues, namely growth rate and plant health.

Pasture Tips:

Owners will know when pasture growth slows as there will be less need for routine mowing and maintenance. Depending on stocking rate—that is, the number of horses on any given acreage—pasture might withstand a slowdown in growth rate and continued grazing. So long as more land is allotted per horse. A large, seven-acre paddock that comfortably sustained five horses in peak growing season might support three as pasture growth declines.

“Observation of grazing behavior might be a tipoff, too. If horses spend more time grazing, they are likely finding less to eat. In periods of lush growth, you might catch horses resting more often. It is easier for them to satisfy their appetites and their need to graze,” said Kathleen Crandell, Ph.D., a nutritionist with Kentucky Equine Research (KER).

Plant health is a more obvious indicator. As autumn segues into winter or as rainfall decreases, pasture grasses often turn brown and unpalatable. During this time growth is almost assuredly arrested. Horses will snack on these remnants, but more nutritious forage should be offered.

Supplementation:

“Owners ought to offer hay as soon as they feel horses are not consuming sufficient pasture to meet daily forage requirement, which is about 1.5-2% of body weight daily,” advised Crandell.

For a 15.2-hand, 1,100-lb (500-kg) horse, that would be 16.5-22 lb (7.5-10 kg) of hay each day. Keep in mind, though, that this amount will likely satisfy the horse’s complete forage requirement.

“If the horse is still nibbling away at pasture much of the day, it might need only a portion of this. If the horse leaves hay in favor of pasture, then too much hay is probably being fed at the time. Gauge requirement through consumption,” recommended Crandell.

To maintain weight, many horses, in combination with their forage, will be consuming a well-fortified concentrate feed that supplies all of the protein, vitamins, and minerals required for their well-being. Those that do not should be fed a vitamin and mineral supplement. For example, Micro-Max, developed by Kentucky Equine Research and available in the U.S. and other regions. Micro-Max supplies minerals that have been chelated or proteinated, which increases their digestibility and allows horses to derive maximum benefit from them. Horse owners in Australia should look for Gold Pellet, Nutrequin, or Perform.

One vitamin that is particularly deficient in diets composed of preserved forages such as hay is vitamin E, an important antioxidant in the horse’s immune arsenal. The most effective source of supplemental vitamin E is d-alpha-tocopherol or natural vitamin E. Nano-E is a natural-source vitamin E supplement. It possesses a unique delivery action, nanodispersion. Consequently, this allows the vitamin to hit target tissues more quickly than other vitamin E supplements. Nano-E is available worldwide.

Don’t know where to begin with supplementation?

J & J Hay can help to answer horse-health and hay related questions.

Source: Kentucky Equine Research

5 Tips to Get Your Horse to Drink More Water During Winter

Monday, December 30th, 2024

Get Your Horse to Drink More Water During WinterThe following guide will help you to get your horse to drink more water during winter. Water is the most essential aspect of any horse’s diet. Without adequate water intake, horses will not survive.

An adult horse (1000 lbs.) in a cool, comfortable environment that is not working, or lactating, needs a minimum of seven to ten gallons of fresh, clean water every day. The amount of water required is closely related to the amount of feed the horse has eaten. Most horses will drink 1.5 quarts of water per pound of dry feed intake. If a horse is consuming 20 pounds of dry hay per day, the horse would be expected to drink approximately 7.5 gallons of water each day. The water requirement is higher if the horse is in training, nursing a foal, growing, pregnant or in a hot/humid environment. The best way to ensure adequate water intake is to always provide free access to fresh, clean water.

Issues associated with water intake during the winter months usually revolve around horses not drinking enough water. Water that has frozen or is near freezing will result in decreased intake. Water consumption reaches its maximum when the temperature is maintained between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Similarly, horses that must eat snow as their only water source, will not eat enough snow to satisfy their necessary water requirement completely. This decreased water intake can result in digestive upset or “colic.” Associated with feed material becoming impacted (stuck) in the digestive system. Therefore, the water source should be free-flowing or heated to prevent freezing and guarantee the horse is drinking enough water. When installing a heating device for water, be certain that any electrical unit is properly grounded to prevent electrical shock of the horse. Horses are very sensitive to electrical shock and will quit drinking to avoid shock.

Here are few easy tips to assist with increasing your horse’s water intake:

  1. Wet your horse’s feed at a ratio of 2 parts feed to 1 part water. This can increase the hydration status of your horse.
  2. Offer a wet mash, every day, of soaked beet pulp shreds or pellets, timothy forage pellets or alfalfa forage pellets. If you are concerned about adding too many calories to an overweight horse’s diet, try soaking and offering teff forage pellets. Soak these forage or fiber sources at a ratio of 2 parts water to 1 part forage.
  3. Wetting down the long-stemmed hay you offer your horse can also boost water intake slightly.
  4. Flavoring your horse’s water can also encourage water intake, especially if you are traveling and have a picky drinker.
  5. Provide a salt block in your horse’s paddock or stall to help stimulate thirst.

Get Your Horse to Drink More Water During Winter Chart

Horses primarily eating hay will consume more water than those eating both hay and grain. Fiber increases the water holding capacity of the hindgut. Better quality hays, such as alfalfa, are typically higher in calories compared to grass hay. Other baled hay substitutes, such as forage cubes and pellets, can be fed to replace poor quality hay.

Standlee Premium Western Forage offers a wide variety of Alfalfa and Alfalfa mix products ranging from baled, long-stemmed forage, to cubes, pellets and chopped forage. Also available are Standlee Premium Smart Beet (beet pulp) shreds and pellets that increase the calorie content of the forage portion of the diet and are highly digestible.

If you have questions about how you can you to get your horse to drink more water during winter, please contact or visit J&J Hay Farms today.

By Dr. Tania Cubitt
Standlee Nutritional Expert – Performance Horse Nutrition

Winter Hay Supplies for Horses

Tuesday, December 10th, 2024

Winter Hay Supplies for HorsesWith winter approaching, horse owners will be looking for a source of hay to feed during the season when pasture forage is dormant. Keep these things in mind as you shop for winter hay:

  • If you have enough storage space, try to buy most or all of your hay from the same source and cutting. Switching to a new type of hay, or even a different cutting of the same type of hay, may trigger colic in some horses.
  • Examine representative bales from each delivery. Reject the order if you find many unusually heavy bales that may contain too much moisture; bales that show mold; and those that smell musty or damp.
  • Look for hay that matches the nutritional requirements of the horses you are feeding. Performance horses will need a better grade of hay than horses that are idle. Obese horses may get along best on a medium-grade hay that is low in nonstructural carbohydrates. Horses with dental problems can get more nourishment from clean, fine-textured hay than from rougher forage that requires more chewing.
  • Be generous in your estimate of how much hay you will need. Winter weather is somewhat unpredictable, so planning for a few extra weeks of hay use is a good idea.
  • Part-way through the winter, evaluate how much hay has been used and shop for more, if needed, before you run out. Mix new hay with older hay for a week or so instead of suddenly introducing a new batch.
  • Store hay in a dry place that has good ventilation. Avoid stacking bales too tightly; air movement will help to prevent mold.

Would you more information about the benefits of late-season hay for horses? Contact us at J & J Farms by clicking here!

Article brought to you by KER.

How to Feed Horses in the Winter

Wednesday, December 4th, 2024

Feed Horses in the WinterWinter seems so far away, but it is just around the corner. Are you ready? Is your horse ready? Learn how to feed horses in the winter in this post.

In the next couple of months, understanding “Lower Critical Temperature (LCT)” will be important for caring and feeding your horse(s) properly. LCT is the temperature below which metabolic heat production must be increased to maintain body temperature.

For mature horses, their LCT will fall around 5°F for a horse with a thick coat and 41°F for a horse with a thin coat. Senior horses over 20 years old, often have a thinner coat and will fall into a LCT of around 41°F. LCT for young horses ranges between 12°F for those with thicker coats and 32°F for thinner coats.

How to Feed as the Temperature Drops

Forage is an essential part of every horse’s diet, whether an 18 hand Belgian or 13 hand welsh pony. Equine digestive systems are designed to digest forage. As temperature drops in the colder months, not only do we need our normal supply of forage stocked in our barns, but we need to be prepared to feed more hay, should the winter conditions prove to unforgiving this season.

For each decrease in coldness of 1°F below the critical temperature, there is an increase in digestible energy requirements for body temperature maintenance. Table 1 shows the estimated feed energy increase at different magnitudes of cold below the lower critical temperature of mature horses.

For example, a horse with a thin coat and a LCT of 41°F, with no change in temperature (41°F), will have a 0 megacalories (Mcals) increase per day, therefore 0 pounds of feed intake increase per day. Let’s say the temperature drops 20 degrees, so it is 21°F outside. In this case, your thin coated horse will need to increase their Mcals by 4, which means an increase of 4 pounds of forage per day to maintain body weight.

What Type of Effect Does Rain and Wind Have on Your Horse?

Wind can make a tolerable temperature day feel miserable. Add moisture? Even worse. Table 2 shows, with just 10-15 mph winds at 32°F, that is an increased need of 4-8 Mcals per day, which means 4-8 pounds per day for your horse. Given our previous scenarios with Table 1, that’s close to a 10 degree drop also, so not only will your horse need 4-8 pounds of additional forage to account for the wind, they’ll also need another almost 2 pounds. This helps keep your horse warm during these cold conditions and ensure body condition maintenance.

Interested in learning more? Visit or call J & J Hay Farms for more information!

Article brought to you by Standlee Forage.

Give Colic the Cold Shoulder This Winter

Wednesday, November 20th, 2024

Give Colic the Cold Shoulder This Winter: Two horses snack on hayGive Colic the Cold Shoulder This Winter: Colic can strike at any time of the day, month, or year. However, impaction colic occurs more frequently in winter. Decreased water intake usually carries the blame for these impactions. Impactions are a blockage in the large colon. Any feedstuff undergoing digestion causes it. Other management factors also contribute to the problem.

“Horses require approximately 5 to 15 gallons (20-55 liters) of water per day. Signs of inadequate water intake include production of dry, sparse feces and weight loss.” described Catherine Whitehouse, M.S., a nutrition advisor for Kentucky Equine Research.

Forage fermentation requires voluminous water. That is why the large colon and cecum are referred to as fermentation vats. Insufficient water intake forces the body to borrow water from the hindgut, which subsequently hinders the fermentation process and puts horses at risk for impactions.

Enticing horses to drink may be achieved by:

  • Offering horses clean water warmer than 40° F (5° C), which may require using heaters;
  • Providing a high-forage diet. Water intake links to forage consumption. Higher forage intake stimulates greater water intake;
  • Soaking feeds, such as complete pelleted or extruded feeds, hay, or hay cubes in water before feeding;
    Delivering the occasional bran mash;
  • Providing soaked beet pulp, a high-energy feed that provides horses with energy and promotes a healthy hindgut; and
  • Sprinkling a little extra supplemental salt, 1-2 oz (30-60 g) for a 1000-lb (450-kg) horse, to stimulate thirst.

Low-quality hay, which is usually high in indigestible fiber (thick stems and few leaves), may increase the risk of impaction in some horses. Further, changes in forage source or type throughout the winter months also increases the risk of digestive disturbances that may progress to colic.

Other factors thought to contribute to winter colic include reduced physical activity if horses are confined to stalls more than normal. In addition, the use of poor-quality hay due to lack of availability, and feeding a limited number of meals per day.

“If only poorer quality hay is available, supplemental vitamins and minerals may be necessary. Offer a vitamin and mineral supplement that serves as a low-intake concentrated ration fortifier,” advised Whitehouse. “Horse owners can also boost forage quality by supplementing with high-quality cubes or pellets. These products offer horse owners a lot of flexibility, especially in the wintertime when forage selection might be limited.”

In conclusion, J & J Hay can help to answer horse-health and hay related questions.

Article Source: Kentucky Equine Research

Strategies for Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky Eaters

Sunday, November 10th, 2024

Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky EatersStrategies for Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky Eaters: Many factors and situations may reduce a horse’s appetite. It’s important to find and correct whatever it is—illness, pain, discomfort, environment—that keeps a horse from diving eagerly into his feed. As the situation is being corrected, owners can try some of the following strategies to encourage a more healthy appetite.

Picky eaters are very sensitive to feed quality. Be sure that premixed feeds and straight grains are within their printed expiration date. In addition, store feeds correctly to avoid mold or oxidation from exposure to air and moisture. In very hot weather, buy only enough feed to last a week or so. Prevent fermentation of grains and molasses in storage. Be a discerning customer when buying hay and chaff, and accept only clean, fresh-smelling forages that are free from weeds, dust, mold, and evidence of rodent infestation.

Forage:

In cases where horses are being fed a lot of grain, adding more forage to the diet can help to avoid problems such as gastric ulcers and hindgut acidity that may reduce appetite. Add forage as long-stem forage (hay or pasture) rather than chaff or other fiber sources. Offering at least 1% of body weight in forage per day is the best way to avoid digestive problems that may dull appetite.

The high glycemic index of grain feeds and the corresponding high blood sugar and insulin levels following grain meals can suppress appetite. As hard feed rations are increased, overall appetite is suppressed.

Horses find best-quality forage most palatable. The hay does not have to be prime lucerne (alfalfa) or clover hay; any clean hay that is free of dust and mold with plenty of leaf and not too much rough, woody stem that has been cured and stored correctly is preferred. Rough, stalky hay is retained in the digestive tract  longer than good-quality, leafy hay. This can affect appetite and intake of forage. Although this type of hay is unsuitable for picky eaters, it can be useful for overweight animals.

In horses that must consume concentrated energy, lucerne (alfalfa) or clover are good choices but are often better in combination with non-legume hays (grass, and cereal hays) than fed alone, where they can sometimes be too rich and cause scouring and further digestive upset.

B Vitamins:

In some cases, a deficiency of B vitamins can be the reason for suppressed appetite. Feeding plenty of forage ensures correct hindgut digestion, allowing adequate production of essential B vitamins in most cases. However, in horses that are working very hard, or those that are under stress or are scouring, B-vitamin production may fall short of requirements.

Supplementing B vitamins to horses with reduced appetite can stimulate appetite. Supplementation is best in an oral form rather than injectibles. For horses that refuse feed, mix powders with water, Give orally via a dosing syringe. Supplements should contain the full complex of B group vitamins at appropriate levels.

A course of daily supplementation for 14 to 20 days will help to stimulate appetite in horses that have gone off feed suddenly. Strategic supplementation prior to and at a show and competition can help to maintain appetite at these critical times. In some rare cases, regular supplementation seems to be required, with the horse going off feed as soon as the supplement is taken away, but correct nutritional and work balance can often alleviate inappetence enough that this is not necessary.

Oil and Fat:

In horses where no cause of poor appetite can be established, the owner or manager must come up with clever ways to get enough energy into the horse to do the job that is required in a safe way that will not affect the horse’s behavior or performance. High-fat feeds and fat/oil supplements can be a great way to get extra calories into the feed bucket in a relatively small volume of feed.

Oil and fat contains about three times the amount of energy as oats on a volume to volume basis. One cup of oil has about the same energy as 1 kg (2.2 lb) of oats. Adding oil or a high-fat supplement increases the energy density of the feed, making each mouthful more calorific.

Even if the horse only eats half of the supplemented feed, the calories taken in are significantly more than with grain feed alone. Appropriate oil choices are canola, corn (the most palatable), sunflower, or mixed vegetable oil. Choose only new oil. Avoid any oil claiming to be recycled or anything from the restaurant industry. This has been used for frying and has different properties from fresh oil.

Other high-fat supplements include rice bran, sunflower seeds, and soybean meal. These can be useful for horses with an aversion to oil. It can be used in combination with oil to reduce the overall volume of oil required. A regular amount is 1 to 2 cups of oil per day or a total of 1 to 2 kg (2.2 to 4.4 lb) of high-fat supplements with or without added oil.

Electrolytes and Salt:

Electrolytes and salt are very important in horse diets. Particularly in working horses. However, feeding too much can suppress appetite and reduce feed palatability. Generally, palatability is reduced once salt is included at more than 1% of the feed. With picky eaters, the tolerance level can be much lower than that.

In many cases, it is better to allow free-choice salt separately from the feed. Dose horses daily by syringe to get the right amount of salt and electrolytes into them. When adding or increasing salt in the feed, the best approach is to do it gradually. This will not always work with picky eaters. Yet, it can help to get the horse eating if no drastic changes are noticed in the feed.

In cases where it is imperative that the horse eats. For example, such as if the horse is sick and weak. If refusal of feed over a period of time while away at competition is affecting performance. If a horse is competing in a long-distance endurance event and is not eating well along the way. The smorgasbord approach can be very useful. Providing a range of different feedstuffs in an attempt to find something that the horse will voluntarily eat will help to satisfy the immediate requirement of getting something into the horse.

New Feedstuffs:

Do not offer new and strange feedstuffs to horses. However, in cases where the horse must eat something, this rule takes a back seat. Smorgasbord meals are usually small (around 0.5 to 1 kg or 1.1 to 2.2 lb per feed type). Once the horse has chosen a particular feed, the others are generally removed. Feedstuffs offered may include a variety of hay types. The preferred type may surprise owners who imagine that prime lucerne (alfalfa) must be the only hay they should try. Do not underestimate the palatability of fresh grass.

In terms of hard feed, the menu may include pellets. In addition, sweet feeds of different types (micronized, steam-flaked, and so on), and straight grains such as steam-flaked barley or straight oats. Leave additives and supplements out of the feed. However, additions such as carrots, apples, a little molasses, apple cider vinegar, or even fruit juice can sometimes be just the temptation the horse needs. The traditional bran mash can be a powerful tool in trying to tempt the picky eater.

A good helping of wheat bran or pollard with the addition of a handful of grain and perhaps some molasses and some carrots and/or apples soaked with warm water and fed fresh and warm can be to a horse as chicken soup is to a convalescing human patient. Bran mashes are often the first feed of choice in equine veterinary hospitals following surgery. For good reason: their proven palatability and as a great way of getting some vital fluids into a horse.

Dealing with picky eaters can be frustrating. The trick is to work out why the horse is not eating. Then, fix the root cause of the problem.

Resources:

In conclusion, do you have questions about Strategies for Increasing Appetite and Tempting Picky Eaters? Contact us at J & J Hay Farms by clicking here!

Article by KER.